Esther Sham EI Hung of Ta Pantry has opened maison es (tel: 2521 8011) off Star Street in Wan Chat. Is a bit of a hike to getup the hill, but well worth the effort. The interior is very feminine, with floral themed china and French salon-like furniture.
The menu is oh-so French, with a modern twist, For starters, the mes coddled egg mixed with black truffle mash (HK$120) was divine, even more so with the accompanying toast, while the crispy foie gras and fig wontons (HKS$190, above) were complemented by sautéed mushrooms and lily bulbs.
The restaurant is in its soft opening period and there was a long gap between the appetisers and mains, but the food was worth the wait. We sampled the roast free-range chicken for two (HK$520) and the meat was succulent and juicy, although it needed more seasoning and the pomelo jus seemed to distract from the dish.
While the dessert selection is tempting, the prices are expensive at more than HK$100 each. Nevertheless, one can’t go wrong with the Valthona chocolate fondant (HK$160) that was flavoured with mint. The sticky lemon sponge cake (HK$120) was on the dry side, although the ginger sorbet served with it was refreshing.